Berne, Indiana to Uhrichsville, Ohio

From: Christine W <christineweir@hotmail.com>
Subject: Kiwis crossing USA: hi from Uhrichsville, Ohio
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 09:08:38 PDT

hi all

We spent a couple of days in Berne, Indiana, and really enjoyed that stopover. Some people invited us out for a meal at a restaurant was due to be demolished in a couple of years to make way for a highway, so they allowed people to write their names on the walls. Naturally we obliged so are now immortalised for a few years anyway.

As we left Berne we stopped to watch an Amish farmer using a team of 4 horses to sow soya beans. He had about 4 kids on the back, and he was standing on a wee cart thing to drive the horses. It was an incredible contrast of old and new, because marching through the field was a row of huge electricity pylons and he was ploughing around them. He was very friendly and stopped to talk for a while.

Just across the border in Ohio there was a house with dozens of bicycles on the lawn so we had to stop and check that out. The lady said her husband collects them and repairs them and sells them, well I think he's being economical with the truth about selling them because a lot of them were rusty and had grass growing up around them!

Well we are making very slow progress through Ohio, simply because it's so beautiful and we keep stopping to look at things. We have been through more Amish country, particularly in Holmes County which is the largest Amish settlement in the country apparently, extremely commercialised.

The terrain has changed from really flat to gently rolling, then quite steep rolling, and is all very beautiful.

We are about to go through to Weirton which is right on the border of Ohio and West Virginia, thought I better visit the town that was clearly named after me! It's only a short distance to Pennsylvania from there, and we are heading for Pittsburgh for a stop.

We have so much time up our sleeves we are going really slowly, some days only 40 km!

Since leaving Indiana we have had a bit of rain, mostly hot and sunny, ranging from 60-80 degrees, which is about 20-30C I think.

Coming through Ohio we have had a variety of interesting camping spots, a farm field complete with mosquitos, and last night was behind a shopping mall beside a river, hidden behind some trees with no through roads.

One time we were out on a county road and stopped to ask a guy spraying the weeds if he knew anywhere we could stop. He thought for a while and then seemed to remember that he had a plot of land up the road and around the corner that we could use. We followed him there and looked at his land, and he said well, my brother lives over there and you could probably camp on his place. So we followed him to his brother's farm, brother was out for the evening however we set up our tents on a beautiful flat grassy patch behind the barn and put a note on his door. Brother arrived later and came out to say hello and was quite happy that we were staying on his place! He invited us in for coffee and cookies in the morning, and he is an ace cookie baker!

He is about 70 yrs old, lives alone, in an incredible old house, and he sounds just like the old guy who talks an introduction on that song Mr Bo Jangles. He was fascinated with us, and the next day was raining and was Memorial Day, so we stayed for that day as well and he took us out to lunch. Also another newspaper interview! I think old George will be dining out for
many years on the story of the 2 ladies who came to visit. He has an old rusty tandem and we had a ride on that with him!

We stayed a night in the Mohican State Park, which is absolutely beautiful. It's about a 4.5 km ride from the main road downhill into a gorge where the camp sites are, just beside a river. It rained heavily during the night and was quite windy, and we got woken up by a huge crash as a tree fell down. Fortunately it was further up the bank behind us. Some people camping further along came to see us in the morning to make sure we were ok as they were worried it might have fallen on us. If it had, we wouldn't have had a chance to escape. Another one fell during the night, and another one in the morning. We waited till the rain cleared and then set off in the afternoon. One good thing about having plenty time is that we can wait out the rain now, instead of packing up wet tents.

Coming out from that park we decided to take a county road instead of going on hwy 3, so we headed off up a beautiful valley with a few ups and downs, until oops, the road suddenly turned west. Time to find out directions, and a guy printed out a county map from his computer and gave us good instructions about how to get back out to the main road. Well, talk about
steep countryside! It was sometimes gravel, sometimes sealed, absolutely stunningly beautiful, and fortunately the steep bits didn't last too long each time and there was a good downhill to compensate.

We headed along the main road towards Millersburg and Madi asked a guy if he knew anywhere we could camp (she gets to ask all the time because she is usually out in front) and he said we could camp at his place! Talk about the good treatment, we were welcomed in for showers and a meal, and had a very enjoyable evening. To top it off, Hans their son is coming over to NZ later in the year so we will be able to return the favour. To top it off even more, they have a cheese factory and we got a tour of the factory and an almighty big block of Swiss cheese to take with us! That certainly was a lovely stopover.

Coming through Berlin was interesting, although so commercial it's a bit offputting. We stopped at a few places out of town and I got some souvenirs to post back home. The Amish in this area are a lot different from the ones we encountered in Berne, Indiana. Over here they ride in enclosed buggies (like the Grandma Duck ones in the comics!) and have a battery, indicator
lights and a horn! Also they have rubber tyres on their wheels. The horses have a lot of work to do, pulling the buggy up some of the steep hills.

We got a bit off track last night, heading for what we thought was a State Park on a sign, and it turned out to be a State Memorial. We kept going anyway and found the campsite behind the shopping mall. There was a drive-through liquor store so I rode through and bought a bottle of root beer! That was fun, I haven't done that before. Ok, I know, simple things .... We are a bit further south than we mean to be, however it doesn't really matter.

Now that we are in hillier countryside, the grid pattern for the roads doesn't work any more, and we did a bit of unpleasant highway riding yesterday. It looks like we can take some minor roads today so that will be nice.

The weather has been great, the occasional rain, mostly fine, still tail winds, and a lot of humidity. One day was 73% and some days it is so misty that it looks like it's raining in the distance. It's a relief when it rains. I find the nights very humid and it's too hot to sleep inside my bag most nights so I just sleep in my silk liner on top of the mat.

So, the end of another State is coming up, and it's often a bit sad leaving these beautiful states, yet exciting because there's new territory coming up and every day is a new adventure waiting for us.

Bye for now
Christine and Madi

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